Unwinding in the Shoalhaven just hits differently. The three hour drive from Sydney is so picturesque, it flies by – particularly if you wind down the window to take in the fresh breeze, sea-salt air and rolling green hills.
Whilst the South Coast boasts a myriad of breathtaking landmarks, good food and brilliant boutique stays, there’s something extra special about the Milton-Ulladulla coastal corridor. There’s an undeniable sense of kinship among the locals, but visitors are just as warmly welcomed. Smiles, hospitality and generosity feel unlimited here and freely offered by those you pass on the street, meet in local shops, and order from in cafés, wineries and neighbourhood pubs.
Where History Meets the Sea
The region is the perfect mix of rural, coastal and historic charm. Milton – named after poet John Milton – was established in 1859 and served initially as a dairying, timber and agricultural hub. Now heritage-listed, it is still known for its rich 19th Century architecture and streets spotted with cafes and seriously good boutique shopping.
Just seven minutes south-east of Milton, Mollymook is a quaint beachside holiday spot – settled by the Mitchell family in 1859 – now known for its surf, vibrant dining scene and ‘bogey hole’, a natural swimming spot left behind after thousands of tonnes of silica were mined from the region.
Ulladulla lies just a few minutes further south, a coastal hub originally home to the Murramarang people of the Yuin Nation, later evolving into a thriving timber and dairy port by the 1840s, with the Warden Head lighthouse erected in 1873 to guide ships safely into harbour.
Here’s how we spent 48 hours in the coastal region…
Check in to 1960s Cool
If you want to feel like you’ve truly escaped the city – in fact, like you’ve stepped out of the present day altogether – lock in a night or two at Motel Molly.
Think retro 1960s, with a playful collision of Palm Springs cool and Barbie’s dream house. The Motel is made up of four main buildings and they’re colour-coded – lime green, Capri blue, light yellow and baby pink (each with Smeg appliances to match).
Motel facilities are built for ultimate relaxation – pagoda patio umbrellas frame the lagoon-blue pool that sits alongside the muscle-melting spa. And for those wanting to sweat it out, the sauna rounds out the ultimate wellness experience.
Upon arrival, you’ll want to slip straight into your robe and slippers, don your cat-eye sunglasses, grab a Molly Margarita from the hotel vending machine (yes, there’s a boozy vending box) and lie by the pool feeling effortlessly chic and very mid-century Hollywood.
The interiors are just as carefully considered, each room a mix of retro glamour and desert ease. Colourful Moroccan tiles add a Mediterranean accent in the bathrooms and kitchens. Bedrooms and lounges are decorated in sandy neutrals and sun-faded pastels. Spaces are light, bright, airy and relaxed.
The beach, Mollymook Golf Club and Salt & Spencer Café are just a three-minute walk away, but if you’d rather explore on wheels, grab one of the complimentary bicycles and peruse the area in style. There are also free surfboards on hand for anyone with a taste for aquatic adventure.
Lunch in True Garden-to-Table Style
There’s no shortage of award-winning places to dine in the region. For lunch, Milk Haus is a must-visit. Located in a 19th Century converted cheese factory, this garden-to-plate cafe serves a delicious selection of innovative dishes for breakfast and lunch from Thursday to Monday.
Head Chef Nat Taylor lets the seasons do the talking, crafting her menu around the thriving on-site garden and local producers. Simple, unadulterated ingredients come together in unexpectedly complex flavours – dishes that are both deeply nourishing and utterly satisfying.
After your meal, wander through the flower and kitchen gardens, and don’t miss the chance to take home some house-pickled cauliflower or hot sauce.
Seaside Feasting by Night
For dinner, book a table at Rick Stein Mollymook – located at Bannister’s – where the menu heroes fresh seafood, cooked simply. Start with grilled Shark Bay Scallops with Coriander and Hazelnut Butter and move on to Indonesian Seafood Curry with Blue Eye Trevalla, Squid, Prawns and Mussels. Pair with a side of shoestring fries and a glass of Cupitt’s Vermentino and you’ll leave feeling utterly content.
If you’re after something a little more oriental, try Gwylo – winner of Reader’s Choice Australian Good Food Guide 2025 and recommended by multiple locals. Think Malaysian-style street eats but elevated, served up with delicious cocktails, dim lighting and classic tunes. It’s city-level Asian fusion by the breeze of the coast.
The Wine Region You Didn’t Know Existed
When people think of ‘wine’ in New South Wales, they often think of the Hunter Valley, or even Mudgee. But there are in fact upwards of ten Shoalhaven Coast wineries, with an absolute standout being Cupitt’s Estate – just a 10 minute drive from Milton.
Cupitt’s is an experience in and of itself. Nestled between the vines and overlooking Burrill Lake and the Budawang Ranges, you’ll find a family-run eco-friendly boutique winery, a cellar-door, a five-star farm-to-table dining room and luxury villas overlooking the breath-taking scenery.
A visit to the cellar door is a must, especially now, as Cupitt’s has just launched six new varietals, each crafted from grapes grown locally or sourced throughout New South Wales and inspired by the Mediterranean.
Head Winemaker, Wally Cupitt says, “We favour Mediterranean varietals like Fiano, Vermentino, Arneis, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo, not because they’re trendy, but because they make sense for our coastal way of life.
They’re fresh, textural, food-friendly, and perfectly suited to the kind of dishes we serve at the restaurant here at Cupitt’s Estate. They complement the local seafood, house-made pasta, and produce from our garden.”
Book a Tour and Taste experience in advance. Wander through the vineyard, step inside the winery, and explore the tanks, barrels, and bottling line. For a truly intimate behind-the-scenes experience, opt for ‘Meet The Maker’ – you’ll be personally guided through the winery, learning how science meets art in winemaking, tasting straight from the barrel, and enjoying a cheese and wine pairing in the underground cellar.
Trinkets to Take Home
No trip is complete without a little retail therapy and a take-home memento.
Pipi’s Boutique in Ulladulla delivers high-end style at affordable prices, stocking brands like Here Comes The Sun, White Closet and Runaway The Label. From formal nightwear to breezy beachside pieces, there’s an outfit here for every occasion.
Further up the Princes Highway in Milton, take a left onto Wason Street for a browse through Jipsi Cartel, with its modern Bohemian pieces; Home at Last, for super-chic homewares and gifts; and El Wilde Merchant, a treasure-filled thrift shop perfect for uncovering one-of-a-kind pieces sure to draw compliments from strangers.
Coffee & Chill
Ten years ago you might have struggled to find coffee-snob-worthy caffeine hits in regional beachside towns, but that’s most certainly no longer the case. Good Times Cafe is a little hole in the wall in Mollymook – loved by locals and visitors alike. Located on Tallwood Ave, it’s a short walk from the beach. These guys specialise in light to medium roasts, focusing on bringing out origin characteristics, using single-origin beans such as Myanmar Ruby Hills and Colombia Orlando Sanchez.
Grab your coffee to go and round out the trip with a stroll along the seaside walking track. Take a seat on the sand at Mollymook Beach, watch the surfers in action, and let the salty air fill your lungs – you’ll carry this slice of coastal bliss with you long after the sun dips below the horizon.
