Evandale, a charming cosy village just 20 minutes from Launceston, is a little piece of history etched into the banks of the South Esk River, where Georgian facades, winding streets and old-world character feel almost untouched by time.
But beneath Evandale’s meticulously preserved heritage streetscape lies a more complicated past, one shaped by convict labour, where many of the town’s earliest buildings were constructed by convicts forced to work for wealthy landowners without pay.
For such a tiny town, Evandale carries a remarkably rich history. Governor Macquarie visited the area in both 1811 and 1821, and it was during his first visit that he decided a township should be established there. The first settlers arrived in 1816, when several families were relocated from the penal colony on Norfolk Island.
Evandale is also closely tied to renowned artist John Glover, who lived nearby in Deddington. His striking Tasmanian landscapes would later inspire the Glover Prize — now one of Tasmania’s most prestigious art awards, with an annual $50,000 prize pool with finalists exhibited in Evandale.
The town is home to the quirky and much-loved National Penny Farthing Championships, where riders dressed in vintage attire race through the streets each February on towering high-wheel bicycles, adding yet another layer of character to one of Tasmania’s most beautifully preserved villages.
Today, Evandale is a must-visit stop for travellers exploring Tasmania, while also remaining a favourite day trip for locals from Launceston, who regularly make the short drive out for the Sunday markets or a long, leisurely lunch and a few beers in the charming Clarendon Arms Hotel.
The Clarendon Arms: The Pub With One Hell Of A Past
You can not visit Evandale without stopping to refuel at The Clarendon Arms Hotel. This beautifully renovated hotel is the pulse of this town. Between the reinvigorated facade lies a fascinating history. It previously served as a watch house with cells housing convicts prior to their transportation to Hobart. The most notorious was rumoured to be John Kelly, father of outlaw and bushranger Ned Kelly.
The hotel gained further notoriety in 1992 when Mark ‘Chopper’ Read shot a former bikie boss in a carpark nearby after drinking at the venue, adding a darker chapter to its already storied past.
Today, it’s filled with life and laughter once again, thanks to Lydia Nettlefold, a hospitality veteran with a flair for breathing warmth back into abandoned and seemingly forgotten venues.
Lydia’s interest in the venue was first sparked during her regular trips to the Evandale Sunday markets, with the old Clarendon Arms Hotel beckoning her each time she drove past. So in 2016, despite plenty of outside doubt, she took a chance on the historic hotel and, following an initial restoration, reopened the doors to immediate success.
In 2020 when hospitality venues across the nation were forced to shut their doors, Lydia decided to embrace the closure and dive into an intensive restoration and redesign – using the time to turn the hotel into the iconic and impeccably styled destination that it is today.
Open fireplaces warm you to the soul, while lovingly sourced antique furniture and thoughtfully curated art collected both locally and abroad make the space feel both homely and rich in character.
The hotel serves honest, fresh British-style pub fare with a twist, think roast vegetable pies, pork cutlets and duck-fat potatoes. The seasonal menu celebrates exceptional Tasmanian produce while also making use of what’s growing in the garden just outside.
And Lydia truly embodies the phrase “hands-on”. Most days you’ll find her in the kitchen, cooking alongside her team and serving up her own recipes, refined through years of devoted practice.
The beer garden is the place to be on a Sunday afternoon, where locals and visitors gather to sip a range of Tasmanian beers and wines while soaking up live music in the sun.
Charleston Cottage Is One Of Tasmania’s Dreamiest Boutique Stays
The Clarendon Arms Hotel was not Lydia Nettlefold’s first renovation rodeo. She previously purchased and restored the once-condemned Church of England rectory in Richmond, along with the old morgue that once sat beside it. Her experience also includes transforming and operating the charming Red Feather Inn in Hadspen, Tasmania, as well as spending years at the helm of the much-loved 1980s Miss Betty’s restaurant in Paddington, Sydney.
In 2017, just one year after purchasing the Clarendon Arms, she received a call from the local real estate agent letting her know that the dilapidated Charleston Cottage next door was available for purchase – with one catch – she only had until the end of the day to make a decision.
It felt right, so she took another leap.
But Charleston Cottage was no picnic to begin with. It had heritage and strong bones, but only three walls and rotten floors. Today it’s a luxury boutique stay with open fireplaces, a sandstone courtyard, copper fixtures and characterful design at every turn. Everything in between then and now was Lydia’s magic touch.
The interiors, in particular, draw inspiration from Lydia’s visit to Charleston Farmhouse in the UK, the former home and meeting place of the Bloomsbury Group in the first half of the 20th century. A circle of writers, intellectuals and artists including Virginia Woolf, they were known for their progressive ideas around equality, diversity and creative freedom. In that same spirit, Lydia has filled the cottage with colour, texture and collected objects, creating a space that feels both moody and uplifting.
The whole house can be booked exclusively, sleeping up to ten guests, or split into two separate stays, with the main two-bedroom cottage at the front and a one-bedroom studio at the rear available independently.
The Shops Worth Wandering Into
Evandale Village Store is filled with exceptional homewares, pantry goods and gifts sourced both locally and abroad. Its shelves are packed to the brim with beautiful finds, and you could easily spend an hour here simply admiring the collection of trinkets, treasures and thoughtful pieces tucked into every corner.
The Evandale General Store is also well worth a visit. Owned by twin brothers who work alongside Lydia at the Clarendon Arms Hotel, it’s stocked with delicious cheeses, cured meats, locally made condiments, fresh produce and pantry staples, making it the perfect stop for grazing supplies or edible souvenirs to take home.
And of course – if you’re visiting on a Sunday – the markets are an absolute must!
Step Inside One Of Northern Tasmania’s Grandest Estates
A visit to Clarendon Estate is also a must while in the region. Set on expansive grounds overlooking the South Esk River, the grand 19th-century estate offers a glimpse into Tasmania’s colonial past, with beautifully preserved Georgian architecture, manicured gardens and richly decorated interiors that feel frozen in time. Whether you’re wandering through the historic rooms or simply taking in the peaceful surrounds, it’s one of the most striking heritage experiences in Northern Tasmania.
What’s Next For Evandale
Lydia has plenty of plans in the works to make the charming historic town of Evandale even more desirable to visit.
There are rumours of a long-table lunch with a celebrity chef in 2027 (you heard it here first), an all-afternoon affair of sunshine grazing, exquisite cuisine, great company and relaxed live music drifting through the garden. She’s also exploring the idea of a writers’ festival, a natural extension of her love of literature, history and curating beautifully immersive experiences that bring people together.
